Rhubarb Takes the Cake, and More

Luscious green and red rhubarb never ceases to surprise me.

First it grows seemingly out of nowhere into a stupendously full mound before anything else in the garden takes off. Then there’s the sheer appearance of it: electric red or green stalks, dripping with juice, topped by huge green leaves. But most surprising of all is the taste: Every food culture has its favorite sour flavors – Germans wait in anticipation for their fantastically sour gooseberries to ripen so they can make cakes and jams, and South Indians love to put equally mouth-puckering tamarind in their chutneys, lentils, and vegetables dishes. For us, I suppose it’s rhubarb, and since the season is fleeting we’ve developed any number of ways to savor its flavor.

Below, you’ll find a recipe for an upside-down rhubarb cake that appealed to me because it was made with all ingredients I had in my kitchen, including yogurt, which is a stand-by in my house. I adapted it slightly to make a lower sugar version.

And below THAT you’ll find a recipe from our recent rhubarb jam class, and another recipe for pickled rhubarb, which I tried for the first time at City Market’s employee picnic, catered by American Flatbread. Its tangy yet sweet flavor strikes just the right spring note on a green salad. Enjoy!

Rhubarb Upside Down Cake

I adapted this recipe to use a lot of rhubarb and cut back the sugar (and substituted white sugar for brown, so the rhubarb color would stand out more against the cake). I also substituted 1/3 cup almond flour, which my mother left in my kitchen and I’ve been putting into everything because it’s surprisingly good. Barring that, I would substitute part whole grain flour, like spelt flour, whole wheat pastry flour, or even cornmeal.

For the topping:
2 Tbs. unsalted butter
1/4 cup sugar
2-3 cups chopped rhubarb (about 1-1 ½ pound), or enough to fill the bottom of the pan

For the cake:
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
½ cup sugar
1 large egg
½ tsp. vanilla
1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour (substitute part almond flour or whole-grain flour)
1 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. baking soda
1/4 tsp. salt
2/3 cup yogurt
zest of 1 lemon, about 1 Tbs.

Preheat oven to 350°.

Either use an 8-inch round cake pan with 3-inch tall sides or a 9-inch round cake pan with 2-inch sides.

To make the topping: Place the butter in the cake pan and place in the oven.  When butter is melted, remove pan from the oven. Using two pot holders, tilt the pan around and around, coating the sides of the pan with butter.

Sprinkle 1/4 cup sugar into the melted butter in the cake pan. Arrange the rhubarb in a single layer.

To make the cake: In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt.  Set aside.

In a spate bowl, cream together butter and sugar on medium speed.  Cream until slightly pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add egg and vanilla extract.  Beat for 1 minute. Add the dry ingredients.  Beat on low speed while adding the yogurt and lemon zest. Beat until the batter just comes together. Batter will be pretty thick.

Spoon batter over the fruit and spread evenly with a spatula.  Bake for about 30-35 minutes, or until a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean (may take longer with whole-grain flour).

Let cake rest for 10 minutes before running a knife around the edge of the cake and inverting the cake onto a cake plate.  Serve with whipped cream or ice cream.

Adapted from Eat, Make, Read

Pickled Rhubarb

I adapted this recipe for red wine vinegar, whose rosy color is pretty with the rhubarb.

1 pound rhubarb stalks (4 to 6 large stalks)
1 cup red wine vinegar
1 cup water
1 cup granulated sugar
1/2 tsp. fine grain salt
2 tsp. mustard seeds
1/2 tsp. black peppercorns
1/2 tsp. whole cloves
2 star anise

Prepare two wide mouth pint jars and lids.

Wash rhubarb stalks well and trim to fit into the jars. If the stalks are broad, slice them into lengthwise sections. In a small saucepan, combine the apple cider vinegar, water, sugar and salt and bring to a boil.
Divide the mustard seeds, peppercorns, cloves and star anise between the two prepared jars. Pack the rhubarb pieces into the jars above the spices.

Once the pickling liquid has boiled and the sugar and salt are dissolved, pour it into the jars over the rhubarb, leaving 1/2 inch headspace. Tap the jars gently to dislodge any air bubbles. If the headspace level has dropped significantly, add more pickling liquid.

Wipe jar rims, apply lids and rings and process jars in a boiling water bath canner for 10 minutes. When time is up, remove jars from canner and set them to cool on a folded kitchen towel. When jars are cool enough to handle, remove rings and test seals. If jars are at all sticky, wash them to remove that residue. Sealed jars can be stored in the pantry for up to 1 year. Unsealed jars can be stored in the refrigerator and eaten within 2 weeks.
Let this pickle cure for at least 48 hours before eating.

Adapted from Serious Eats

Simple Rhubarb Jam

Robin Berger, a prize-winning jam maker who will be teaching jam classes for us all summer, demonstrated this recipe in a recent class. It’s packed with rhubarb flavor, and is amazing on a fresh, local croissant.
 
1 kg (2.2 pounds) rhubarb, stalks halved lengthwise and then chopped into 1/2 inch or so pieces
600 g (1.3 pounds – about 2 2/3 cups) sugar
Juice of one lemon
 
Combine all the ingredients in a non-reactive pot or bowl (non-reactive means, anything but copper, aluminum or cast iron).  Stir well and cover with a lid or a towel before placing in the fridge at least overnight (I usually allow mine to rest for 24 hours).
 
Remove the pot from the fridge, uncover it, stir well, and place over high heat. Heat the jam over high heat. Once the fruit is boiling, stir constantly until the setting point is reached. Use the cold plate test to test the set:
 
When you think your jam is set, place a small amount on a plate you have previously set in the freezer and place it in the fridge for several minutes. (If you forget to place the plate in the freezer ahead of time, simply leave it in the fridge for longer before checking). Test the dollop of jam by pushing it with your finger: If it wrinkles up, it is gelled and you can can your jam.
 
Ladle hot jam into hot jars, leaving 1/4” headspace. Wipe the rims clean with a damp paper towel or cloth, place on 2-piece lids, and tighten by hand. Place filled jars in a water bath canner with water covering the jars by at least 1”. Boil for 10 minutes.

Turn off the heat, remove the cover to the canner, and leave the jars in the canner for another 5 minutes.

Remove jars and place on a towel, dishcloth, or a cooling rack, with at least a 1” space between jars. Allow to cool completely, 12-24 hours.

Once cool, take off the lid bands and test the seal by pushing up on the lid with your thumbs. Any jars that have not sealed properly can be placed in the fridge. Clean the top of the jars, label, and store in a cool dry place.

Recipe from Robin Berger, Hippo Flambe