Fiddlehead Season at Last

It’s hard to believe, after the slow start to spring this year and the torrential downpours that have left Vermont shorelines and riverbanks underwater, that fiddlehead season is here.

Roasted Fiddlehead Ferns with Millet

With it, come concerns about harvesting methods, as the Burlington Free Press reported on May 3rd. While the rains rendered certain questions about harvesting moot – fiddleheads grow near the water, and many spots have simply been submerged – we still want people to know that the wild edibles we are fortunate enough to receive at City Market come from sustainable sources.

Jason Pappas, our Assistant Produce Manager, is working on producing a sustainability pledge that encompasses all our wild crafters. He says, “As you may know, City Market is probably the largest retailer of wild-crafted fiddleheads in the state. Our dramatic increase in sales over the past couple of years is proof that locally-minded, and just plain curious customers, have the buying clout to get the attention of opportunistic wild-crafters.

In an effort to make sure that everyone is on the same page, I want to assure everyone that the handful of wild-crafters that we have been working with over the past five years or so, have been carefully weeded out (pun intended) from the opportunistic and sometimes shady characters that come through our doors offering to sell us something that looks as if it grew out of a crack in the sidewalk on Main St.

As a result of this valid scrutiny by the press and the general public, we will be taking measures to assure our customers that we are only working with ethical wild-crafters who practice sustainable harvesting while foraging.  This type of over-harvesting is not uncommon in Vermont.  For example, wild ginseng was almost harvested to extinction, due to consumers who would pay top dollar for this medicinal root. Even though it still remains endangered, there are people who would not hesitate to illegally harvest and sell this root.

Because of this reality of wild commerce, (no pun intended) we will be asking our wild-crafters to sign off on a ‘wild-crafter’s pledge’ that will basically be an oath of sustainability.  This will ensure us that the local bounty that we receive and offer to our customers is done so with the utmost respect to the land.”

Look for that pledge in the Produce department shortly.

In the meantime, enjoy the fiddleheads while they last – we are looking at a shortened season for them, and eagerly anticipating fields drying out so farmers, especially down in the Intervale, can progress with their planting and we can welcome the fruits of their harvest.

Roasted Fiddleheads with Millet and Grated Cheese

1 cup millet
1 cup grated sharp cheddar
½ pound fiddleheads
Olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Rinse millet in a strainer. In a medium, heavy-bottomed pot, toast millet until it becomes golden and slightly nutty, about 3-5 minutes. Add 3 cups of water and ½ tsp. salt and bring to a boil. Turn down heat, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes, or until millet is tender. Turn off heat and set aside.
In the meantime, grate cheddar cheese. Rinse fiddleheads and trim ends; remove any brown papery chaff that might still be clinging to them. Roast at 400 with some olive oil, salt, and pepper, for about 15 minutes, or until slightly caramelized (to taste).
Serve millet on individual plates, top with grated cheese, and sprinkle with fiddleheads. Serves 3.